Out to breakfast. Corinne is craving French Toast. Bob has packed egg salad sandwiches for lunch. We plan to use one of our gift cards for Macaroni Grill for dinner in Reno.
We're not gamblers, so the fact that there are slot machines even in the grocery stores does not tempt us. The gigantic columns outside the Atlantic Casino are impressive.
The big thing out West is to identify your town by painting the first initial of the town on the hillside so passersby will recognize where they are.
For someone like me, with a fascination with hay bales, I've certainly gotten my fill here. There are walls of square hay bales, pyramids of hay bales. There are no silos, just stacked outside in humongous piles. Not even covered by tarps or plastic.
We visit Sand Mountain Recreation Area. The road is more than corrugated - more like a washboard. The sand was blown there 4,000 years from a lake that dried up, hundreds of miles away. Then the sand was trapped by the mountains and couldn't go any further.
This area was used by the Pony Express in 1860 - 1861. There are ruins from lava rock buildings that were used to shelter the Pony Express riders.
There are kangaroo rats and a giant jackrabbit with huge ears running among the lava rocks.
Above our heads Navy planes from a nearby base performed drills. They repeated touch-and-goes. We saw helicopters using their FLIRR, infra-red capacity.
I so hate to be hot that I would rather wear Keanes sandals and get hot sand in my toes than to be closed up in hiking boots.
Since I have no sense of direction, nor am I a one-trial learner of place, I rely on Bob to be my guide. While I spent a year working on the wedding, he spent a year working out the skeleton of our trip. Now we have the freedom to take it day by day, stopping at interesting architectural, geological or historical markers along the way, and even staying longer in one place overnight if we need to.
I should come back from our trip looking 10 years younger. Every day in the desert is like having microdermabrasion treatments to your skin. When we come home from a day of hiking, our skin is full of salt and sand.
I like to think I'll keep off the 5 pounds I've lost, too. Besides the constant activity, rock-climbing, sand-walking, trudging uphill at high altitudes, there is the fact that since I'm not watching TV at night, I'm not so tempted to snack.
Dicky-Du and his Zydeco Krewe come from LA to Reno to perform at a small club. He's the son of Roy Carrier. The audience is small but appreciative. We are grateful we can do some zydeco after 6 weeks away from our favorite kind of dancing.
One of Dicky-Du's roadies wears a L'il Anne and the Hot Cayenne t-shirt. L'il Anne is a local zydeco performer who is one of our favorites. We feel right at home.
Monday, August 3, 2009
Sunday, August 2, 2009
Day 44- Sunday 8/2/09 - SETTLED
Our tenant Rob, who is renting our house for a month while we're away, tells us to go visit the Amazon.com warehouse, which is very secretive. We are curious. We try to find it according to the directions on the internet. The name on the building we find is Quebecor Retail Division.
There is a funny sign along the way at the Pawn Shop: Clearance Sale. That just strikes me as odd.
After much searching, I finally find a cowboy hat for my grandson Nathan. Garage Sale signs along the road have led us off into the desert to little back road with small houses and trailers. The hat is red, paper-based, and costs 50c!
On our visit to Virginia City, where many of the shopkeepers are dressed in authentic miners' outfits, or like cowboys or prostitutes, we are interested in the old gold and silver mines. There are lots of curio shops and saloons, in restored Victorian buildings. 10,000 buildings were destroyed by fire in 1876. The merchandise ranges from very expensive antiques to Made-in-China "chotchkes". There are slot machines everywhere.
Smoking is still allowed in many places out West and it seems that even where it is not allowed, the enforcement is not great. Today we are in a saloon in Virginia City called Bucket of Blood and the Comstock Cowboys are playing some really great music.
We are dancing away and all of a sudden these three people behind us light up, despite the No Smoking signs. Noone from the Saloon says anything, and these are tough-looking motorcycle folk. We are not about to cause a scene, so we just leave.
I have never seen so many motorcycles as I have out West, nor so many people with tattoos. Two women on a motorcycle wink at us. Are they winking at Bob, or at me?!
I see my first cheek-piercing today, too. OW!
Down the street at Bob's BBQ we are attracted by the smells, but the meal proves to be the worst we've had so far - hard pulled pork, stale and dry cornbread, tasteless coleslaw and the worst old and flat crumbly bun we've ever seen.
Bob is still looking for the perfect buttery yellow buckskin fringed jacket. He saw one years ago in Montana on our way back from Alaska, and passed it up because of the expense, but he's been kicking himself ever since.
Utah is the Beehive State, but we saw no beehives in two weeks of traveling across the entire state. Yet here we are in Nevada, and so far we have seen two farms with hundreds of beehives. We ask why and are told that the name "Beehive State" for Utah comes from the Mormon ethic of working "like busy little bees".
Our RV park has standards - only vehicles of certain brands and certain model years are admitted. Ours is one of the smallest and oldest. There is a really old RV here that appears to have a young working family living in it with 3 kids, ages about 2, 5 and 13. Maybe the Mom is a traveling nurse?
The 5 year old spends the entire hour while we are making dinner seeing how far she can throw her little plastic chair across the empty RV site next to theirs. She stomps after it, angry that she can't better her last effort, only to try again and again. A strong wind from an upcoming storm helps her cause.
There is a funny sign along the way at the Pawn Shop: Clearance Sale. That just strikes me as odd.
After much searching, I finally find a cowboy hat for my grandson Nathan. Garage Sale signs along the road have led us off into the desert to little back road with small houses and trailers. The hat is red, paper-based, and costs 50c!
On our visit to Virginia City, where many of the shopkeepers are dressed in authentic miners' outfits, or like cowboys or prostitutes, we are interested in the old gold and silver mines. There are lots of curio shops and saloons, in restored Victorian buildings. 10,000 buildings were destroyed by fire in 1876. The merchandise ranges from very expensive antiques to Made-in-China "chotchkes". There are slot machines everywhere.
Smoking is still allowed in many places out West and it seems that even where it is not allowed, the enforcement is not great. Today we are in a saloon in Virginia City called Bucket of Blood and the Comstock Cowboys are playing some really great music.
We are dancing away and all of a sudden these three people behind us light up, despite the No Smoking signs. Noone from the Saloon says anything, and these are tough-looking motorcycle folk. We are not about to cause a scene, so we just leave.
I have never seen so many motorcycles as I have out West, nor so many people with tattoos. Two women on a motorcycle wink at us. Are they winking at Bob, or at me?!
I see my first cheek-piercing today, too. OW!
Down the street at Bob's BBQ we are attracted by the smells, but the meal proves to be the worst we've had so far - hard pulled pork, stale and dry cornbread, tasteless coleslaw and the worst old and flat crumbly bun we've ever seen.
Bob is still looking for the perfect buttery yellow buckskin fringed jacket. He saw one years ago in Montana on our way back from Alaska, and passed it up because of the expense, but he's been kicking himself ever since.
Utah is the Beehive State, but we saw no beehives in two weeks of traveling across the entire state. Yet here we are in Nevada, and so far we have seen two farms with hundreds of beehives. We ask why and are told that the name "Beehive State" for Utah comes from the Mormon ethic of working "like busy little bees".
Our RV park has standards - only vehicles of certain brands and certain model years are admitted. Ours is one of the smallest and oldest. There is a really old RV here that appears to have a young working family living in it with 3 kids, ages about 2, 5 and 13. Maybe the Mom is a traveling nurse?
The 5 year old spends the entire hour while we are making dinner seeing how far she can throw her little plastic chair across the empty RV site next to theirs. She stomps after it, angry that she can't better her last effort, only to try again and again. A strong wind from an upcoming storm helps her cause.
Saturday, August 1, 2009
Day 43 - Saturday, 8/1/09 - SETTLED
There is a big event happening at the local park - Hot August Nights. One part of it is an antique car show. We enjoy walking around sharing memories about the old cars we see.
Nearby is The Chocolate Nugget Candy Factory. On the lawn there are several antique farm implements, and a statue of The Old Prospector as big as the building. His hands were larger than his head.
Bob is musing: "I wonder if when they got drunk and they had ridden their horse to the saloon, they could just let the horse take them home. But then, the next day they'd have to tell their friends: 'I was arrested for RWI last night (riding while intoxicated)'. This is why Bob's son Jim is a stand-up comedian.
On the way home, we pass Steamboat Springs, a hot springs that has been in operation as a health facility since 1859. Back then they were on the railroad. Now they are on the Historical Register as a Day Spa. The water comes out hotter than 200 degrees. The owners have to cool off the baths. When we walk in, the proprietor says "Are you here for a soak?"
We see hundreds of houses built on the Geiger Grade on the way to Virginia City. It is quite steep. All have huge glass windows for the view, most with dirt roads and many with antique cars in their driveways. These are spectacular homes.
When we pass a bicyclist riding up this 6 degree grade at 6000 feet elevation, Bob comments: "He must be training for next year's Tour de France."
ROADKILL: Straw hat
In the evening we try ballroom dancing at Never Enough Ballroom Dance Studio in Reno. It appears that everyone else but us has taken lessons from this studio, so they all have very similar dance styles. It is a bit intimidating. We do manage a waltz, an East Coast swing, the foxtrot and a two-step.
Nearby is The Chocolate Nugget Candy Factory. On the lawn there are several antique farm implements, and a statue of The Old Prospector as big as the building. His hands were larger than his head.
Bob is musing: "I wonder if when they got drunk and they had ridden their horse to the saloon, they could just let the horse take them home. But then, the next day they'd have to tell their friends: 'I was arrested for RWI last night (riding while intoxicated)'. This is why Bob's son Jim is a stand-up comedian.
On the way home, we pass Steamboat Springs, a hot springs that has been in operation as a health facility since 1859. Back then they were on the railroad. Now they are on the Historical Register as a Day Spa. The water comes out hotter than 200 degrees. The owners have to cool off the baths. When we walk in, the proprietor says "Are you here for a soak?"
We see hundreds of houses built on the Geiger Grade on the way to Virginia City. It is quite steep. All have huge glass windows for the view, most with dirt roads and many with antique cars in their driveways. These are spectacular homes.
When we pass a bicyclist riding up this 6 degree grade at 6000 feet elevation, Bob comments: "He must be training for next year's Tour de France."
ROADKILL: Straw hat
In the evening we try ballroom dancing at Never Enough Ballroom Dance Studio in Reno. It appears that everyone else but us has taken lessons from this studio, so they all have very similar dance styles. It is a bit intimidating. We do manage a waltz, an East Coast swing, the foxtrot and a two-step.
Friday, July 31, 2009
Day 42 - Friday, 7/31/09 - ON THE ROAD
Today we are off to Fernley, NV, which is near Reno and Carson City. We hope to be able to do some dancing, a little gambling, and be citified for a short while for once.
Our route is Highway 50, "The Loneliest Road in America". One of the most interesting things we notice is gates and fences made from hundreds of antlers wired together. There is a wood-framed train tunnel cut through the mountain.
Bob gets excited to see Newark Valley, NV, between Ely and Eureka. That's where his kids grew up in Central New York. But there is nothing in sight save for a fence.
We see so many cattle guards where we see no cattle. Maybe at one time the ranches were bigger? Sometimes the locations make no sense. Could they be for some other purpose?
Everywhere we go, we see rocky outcroppings with a single tree hanging by one root, or a volcanic cone with a single tree precariously perched, or a boulder with a single tree growing out of the rock.
They all remind me of the art of my friend Ben Marlan. We call him "Master of the tiny landscape". It seems each tree has a story to tell, of survival against impossible odds, or of the creature that carried its seed there, or the storm that brought the burl from which it was formed.
Rain hanging from the clouds looks like wispy gray hair.
Austin, NV is the dividing line where US 50's name changes from Altman Street to US 50 on our GPS. This is the old Pony Express Trail, from 1860-1881.
We wonder who delivers the mail to these isolated towns off US 50 where there are anywhere from one to four mailboxes every 50 miles.
The Fairview Peak Earthquake Faults are 100 miles from Reno and Carson City off US 50.
There is a sign we can't interpret: US Navy Centroid Facility. There are low-flying planes and large areas of plain, with messages written at the side of the road with rocks. We imagine those are intended for the pilots to view from the air.
Bob thinks this is a B-17 bombing range for practice, based on the planes he sees.
Along the road there are scattered mining shacks and drilling or digging rigs.
We pass Sand Mountain, and a sign that says "Fallon, The Oasis of Nevada". Is it really? This is a good location for prisons - there are 3 state prisons here.
Our route is Highway 50, "The Loneliest Road in America". One of the most interesting things we notice is gates and fences made from hundreds of antlers wired together. There is a wood-framed train tunnel cut through the mountain.
Bob gets excited to see Newark Valley, NV, between Ely and Eureka. That's where his kids grew up in Central New York. But there is nothing in sight save for a fence.
We see so many cattle guards where we see no cattle. Maybe at one time the ranches were bigger? Sometimes the locations make no sense. Could they be for some other purpose?
Everywhere we go, we see rocky outcroppings with a single tree hanging by one root, or a volcanic cone with a single tree precariously perched, or a boulder with a single tree growing out of the rock.
They all remind me of the art of my friend Ben Marlan. We call him "Master of the tiny landscape". It seems each tree has a story to tell, of survival against impossible odds, or of the creature that carried its seed there, or the storm that brought the burl from which it was formed.
Rain hanging from the clouds looks like wispy gray hair.
Austin, NV is the dividing line where US 50's name changes from Altman Street to US 50 on our GPS. This is the old Pony Express Trail, from 1860-1881.
We wonder who delivers the mail to these isolated towns off US 50 where there are anywhere from one to four mailboxes every 50 miles.
The Fairview Peak Earthquake Faults are 100 miles from Reno and Carson City off US 50.
There is a sign we can't interpret: US Navy Centroid Facility. There are low-flying planes and large areas of plain, with messages written at the side of the road with rocks. We imagine those are intended for the pilots to view from the air.
Bob thinks this is a B-17 bombing range for practice, based on the planes he sees.
Along the road there are scattered mining shacks and drilling or digging rigs.
We pass Sand Mountain, and a sign that says "Fallon, The Oasis of Nevada". Is it really? This is a good location for prisons - there are 3 state prisons here.
Thursday, July 30, 2009
Day 41- Thursday 7/30/09 - SETTLED
We visit Great Basin National Park - elevation 10,000 feet, in Baker, NV, population 100.
We can see Wheeler Mountain, elevation 13,670 feet. Since it is so high, it creates its own weather. There is snow on Wheeler Peak. The other side is glacier - you can see the glacier if you are able to climb 9.6 miles of trails up the mountain. That would not be us.
There are examples of wildlife in Great Basin that are found nowhere else in the US, due to the isolation of the Great Basin.
On our nature walks, we see chunks of raw marble and limestone, and learn that they are both made of calcite.
We take the Lehman Cave tour. The cave was open without supervision until the 1920's when it became part of the National Park. People broke off stalagtites and stalagmites for souvenirs. They made campfires inside the cave and held dance parties in the "ballroooms".
In the evening in our campsite, we see trilling hummingbirds and an owl.
One of our favorite signs was posted at the Indian Trading Post: "Open 'til we close, Closed 'til we open".
I buy my grandson Nathan a coonskin cap. I tell my daughter Danielle that when he gets it, they can learn "Davy Crockett" and start singing it to him. My brother David used to have one and that's what we used to do to him when he wore it. (Of course he really was Davy......)
Still looking for that special little cowboy hat! Probably when we come to a youth rodeo, there will be some for sale. We seem to be always missing them by a couple of days. They take place either just before we get somewhere, or just after we are leaving.
We can see Wheeler Mountain, elevation 13,670 feet. Since it is so high, it creates its own weather. There is snow on Wheeler Peak. The other side is glacier - you can see the glacier if you are able to climb 9.6 miles of trails up the mountain. That would not be us.
There are examples of wildlife in Great Basin that are found nowhere else in the US, due to the isolation of the Great Basin.
On our nature walks, we see chunks of raw marble and limestone, and learn that they are both made of calcite.
We take the Lehman Cave tour. The cave was open without supervision until the 1920's when it became part of the National Park. People broke off stalagtites and stalagmites for souvenirs. They made campfires inside the cave and held dance parties in the "ballroooms".
In the evening in our campsite, we see trilling hummingbirds and an owl.
One of our favorite signs was posted at the Indian Trading Post: "Open 'til we close, Closed 'til we open".
I buy my grandson Nathan a coonskin cap. I tell my daughter Danielle that when he gets it, they can learn "Davy Crockett" and start singing it to him. My brother David used to have one and that's what we used to do to him when he wore it. (Of course he really was Davy......)
Still looking for that special little cowboy hat! Probably when we come to a youth rodeo, there will be some for sale. We seem to be always missing them by a couple of days. They take place either just before we get somewhere, or just after we are leaving.
Wednesday, July 29, 2009
Day 40 - Wednesday, 7/29/09 - ON THE ROAD
We are sad to leave Utah. We could easily have spent another week here.
Bob invents a Utah State ad: "Utah has everything from A to Z - Arches to Zion". Think he'll make his fortune selling it to the state?
We want to come back some day. There is endless beauty here and so many things we could have done if the weather had been a little cooler:
Take the 100 mile loop to the other side of the LaSalle Mountains
Drive River Road (Rt. 128) along the Colorado River
Rent a jeep - go further into Potash. See potash manufacturing plant.
See the remaining Arches which had hikes too long to do in the heat.
Explore the road in Dead Horse Point that lead to the potash beds.
PARADISE #2 - UTAH!
Although desolate, our current drive is endlessly fascinating. All the rocks remind us of giant chunks of chocolate sliced in half, or chocolate layered tortes. Who wouldn't want to hang around that imagery for another week?!
Driving West on I-70, mini canyons abound, with washes running through them, now dry. In NM they would be called "arroyos", in Israel "wadis".
Ranches seem to have their own exits off the Interstate, but the ranch names are not mentioned, and they cannot be seen from the road. Personally, I can't imagine surviving that degree of isolation.
To prevent rock slides falling into the road, the state sometimes puts what looks like cattle fences diagonally across the rock face, or else places the largest piece of chain link fence you have ever seen.
Climbing over 7000 feet elevation, our bag of Apple Chips nearly bursts from the pressure. We can hear the plastic crackling.
On the hill down I-70, 12 miles from I -89 N., there are two tunnels blasted into the mountainside, for an old road that we can see below. A little piece of history, one of many, passing before our eyes as we drive. We often visualize the rugged pioneers either building or traversing such scenes in the mid- 19th century. That road was probably used right up until the Interstate was built.
We eat lunch at Mom's Cafe' in Salina, UT. Her scones are actually fried dough. Mashed potato gravy is sausage gravy. Perhaps this will be the trend as we proceed West.
As we are driving, we see lots of double tanker trucks. The second tank is always smaller. They must have a total length requirement for flammable substances. The UPS trucks we see are sometimes triple trailers, though.
Beautiful green fields are interlaced with golden grass, interspersed with more scrubby desert. There are dust devils 30 feet high dancing around. When they cross the road, they are ghostly and scary, and somehow manage to pick up extra speed as they whirl across asphalt.
On our arrival in Baker, NV, we find a cool little store and restaurant a block from our campground. It is called The Electrolux Cafe'. Hanging from the ceiling are sculptures made from old Electrolux vacuums, like the one my Mom used to have in our house in Cincinnati.
They have a very eclectic collection of food in their case - soy milk, organic yogurt, homemade granola and hiking bars, gourmet cheeses, and other things I haven't seen since we hit the West.
The cafe' is also a motel, with 3 rooms, and they show free movies every night.
Bob invents a Utah State ad: "Utah has everything from A to Z - Arches to Zion". Think he'll make his fortune selling it to the state?
We want to come back some day. There is endless beauty here and so many things we could have done if the weather had been a little cooler:
Take the 100 mile loop to the other side of the LaSalle Mountains
Drive River Road (Rt. 128) along the Colorado River
Rent a jeep - go further into Potash. See potash manufacturing plant.
See the remaining Arches which had hikes too long to do in the heat.
Explore the road in Dead Horse Point that lead to the potash beds.
PARADISE #2 - UTAH!
Although desolate, our current drive is endlessly fascinating. All the rocks remind us of giant chunks of chocolate sliced in half, or chocolate layered tortes. Who wouldn't want to hang around that imagery for another week?!
Driving West on I-70, mini canyons abound, with washes running through them, now dry. In NM they would be called "arroyos", in Israel "wadis".
Ranches seem to have their own exits off the Interstate, but the ranch names are not mentioned, and they cannot be seen from the road. Personally, I can't imagine surviving that degree of isolation.
To prevent rock slides falling into the road, the state sometimes puts what looks like cattle fences diagonally across the rock face, or else places the largest piece of chain link fence you have ever seen.
Climbing over 7000 feet elevation, our bag of Apple Chips nearly bursts from the pressure. We can hear the plastic crackling.
On the hill down I-70, 12 miles from I -89 N., there are two tunnels blasted into the mountainside, for an old road that we can see below. A little piece of history, one of many, passing before our eyes as we drive. We often visualize the rugged pioneers either building or traversing such scenes in the mid- 19th century. That road was probably used right up until the Interstate was built.
We eat lunch at Mom's Cafe' in Salina, UT. Her scones are actually fried dough. Mashed potato gravy is sausage gravy. Perhaps this will be the trend as we proceed West.
As we are driving, we see lots of double tanker trucks. The second tank is always smaller. They must have a total length requirement for flammable substances. The UPS trucks we see are sometimes triple trailers, though.
Beautiful green fields are interlaced with golden grass, interspersed with more scrubby desert. There are dust devils 30 feet high dancing around. When they cross the road, they are ghostly and scary, and somehow manage to pick up extra speed as they whirl across asphalt.
On our arrival in Baker, NV, we find a cool little store and restaurant a block from our campground. It is called The Electrolux Cafe'. Hanging from the ceiling are sculptures made from old Electrolux vacuums, like the one my Mom used to have in our house in Cincinnati.
They have a very eclectic collection of food in their case - soy milk, organic yogurt, homemade granola and hiking bars, gourmet cheeses, and other things I haven't seen since we hit the West.
The cafe' is also a motel, with 3 rooms, and they show free movies every night.
Tuesday, July 28, 2009
Day 39 - Tuesday, 7/28/09 - SETTLED
We have to get the RV serviced - it's due for its 3000 mile check-up. We get Eggs Benedict for breakfast while we are waiting. What a treat.
Every time we go out to eat, we manage to stretch it to have another meal out of the leftovers the next day. Whether it's potatoes that come with an already huge breakfast or dinner rolls, fruit or vegetable garnishes, we don't waste a thing.
Sometimes it means being creative about resources. For example, combining leftover bleu cheese dressing and leftover BBQ sauce makes a nice salad dressing with a little kick.
Corinne decides she has to get her hair cut. It's risky, since she's just started with a new style and finally found someone at home in Ithaca who can do it the way she likes it. But sun, wearing hats and bike helmets have not worked with longer hair, and so she finds a place that does it quite nicely for only $20.
Corinne sells a high-heeled shoe business card holder and two photos to the owner of the beauty salon. She has just opened up and she is happy to have some more decorative items.
The young woman who manages a second-hand clothing store next door is very interested in my hats and high-heeled shoe bracelets. She buys one of each and places a special order for a hat and matching bra for Halloween. Corinne will have to rush that one, because she'll just be arriving home on October 18th, where her materials are stored.
Bob decides he'll grow his hair out long, cowboy style, and shave his beard in preparation for growing a handlebar mustache. Corinne is excited by the possibilities of seeing his cheeks and chin for the first time.
We both are exhausted. We take naps and catch up on our rest. It is 99 degrees, too hot to go hiking today, or too hot to be motivated to hike, anyway.
Every time we go out to eat, we manage to stretch it to have another meal out of the leftovers the next day. Whether it's potatoes that come with an already huge breakfast or dinner rolls, fruit or vegetable garnishes, we don't waste a thing.
Sometimes it means being creative about resources. For example, combining leftover bleu cheese dressing and leftover BBQ sauce makes a nice salad dressing with a little kick.
Corinne decides she has to get her hair cut. It's risky, since she's just started with a new style and finally found someone at home in Ithaca who can do it the way she likes it. But sun, wearing hats and bike helmets have not worked with longer hair, and so she finds a place that does it quite nicely for only $20.
Corinne sells a high-heeled shoe business card holder and two photos to the owner of the beauty salon. She has just opened up and she is happy to have some more decorative items.
The young woman who manages a second-hand clothing store next door is very interested in my hats and high-heeled shoe bracelets. She buys one of each and places a special order for a hat and matching bra for Halloween. Corinne will have to rush that one, because she'll just be arriving home on October 18th, where her materials are stored.
Bob decides he'll grow his hair out long, cowboy style, and shave his beard in preparation for growing a handlebar mustache. Corinne is excited by the possibilities of seeing his cheeks and chin for the first time.
We both are exhausted. We take naps and catch up on our rest. It is 99 degrees, too hot to go hiking today, or too hot to be motivated to hike, anyway.
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